The world can be overwhelming for a little puppy. Here’s how to make sure they have the best possible experiences in early life to set them up for the future
Socialisation and the 'critical' period
‘Socialisation’ has become a real buzzword in the world of dog training and ownership in recent years. However, the concept actually goes back a lot further: much of the initial research into socialisation and the ‘critical’ or ‘sensitive’ period goes back to the 1950s and 60s. The period of a puppy’s development extending from roughly 3 to 12 weeks of age is the most influential period in their life. This is when they develop many social behaviour patterns and do a great deal of learning about their environment. Moreover, a lot of what puppies learn during this period will stay with them for life, for better or worse.
Since puppies should never be taken away from their mother before 8 weeks of age, they will spend at least the first half of this sensitive period in the place they were born. This is one of the many reasons why it is so important to choose your breeder wisely; the way a puppy is treated in these first weeks is critical to ensuring they become a confident and well-rounded adult. All reputable breeders should have some kind of socialisation programme in place, which should involve the puppy being gradually and systematically exposed to the different sights, smells and sounds they are likely to experience in their new home. They should also be introduced to other people and animals. Don’t be afraid to ask your breeder about their socialisation programme when you visit – if they’re worth their salt they’ll be happy to discuss it with you. Once they head home with you from 8 weeks onwards, however, the responsibility for continuing their socialisation falls to you.
What socialisation really means (and doesn’t mean) for puppy owners
Whilst it is great that there is an increasing awareness about the importance of early socialisation, if you get it wrong this can sometimes do more harm than good. That’s why it’s important for all dog owners to understand the basic principles of socialisation:
Socialisation does not mean:
Forcing your dog into interactions with people or other dogs. Try and imagine the world through a puppy’s eyes: all these strange, tall, hairless animals leaning over you and poking you with their monkey hands, how terrifying! Learn to read your dog’s body language – if they are clearly uncomfortable during an interaction then ask the person to step away and give them some space. Advocate for your dog, they can’t always do it themselves! The same applies to interactions with other dogs. Allow your puppy to say hello to the other dog in their own time, preferably off the lead or on a longer line.
Taking your dog out to play with every dog you can find, regardless of whether they are well-matched in terms of size and play style. In some ways, dogs are just like people – they have different personalities, different likes and dislikes. And like people, they don’t all necessarily get on! Some dogs enjoy rough and tumble play, whilst others prefer just being in other dogs’ company without too much interaction. This is why it’s important to be careful when choosing your pup’s playmates: if they are much bigger and rougher than your puppy, then they could end up getting hurt. What’s more, they may come to associate other dogs with feeling scared or sore, resulting in more serious behavioural problems down the line.
Flooding your dog with experiences so they ‘get used to it’. It can be tempting to take your puppy to all the new places and meet all the new people all at once – but don’t be too hasty! While it’s good to expose your puppy to new things, be sure not to overwhelm them and cause them to become frightened instead.
Socialisation does mean:
Taking your time and introducing new things gradually, always allowing your dog the freedom to choose whether to interact or not. For example, rather than immediately taking them on a walk through the busy town centre on a Saturday, start by taking them on a quieter day and sitting with them on a bench out of the way for a little while just watching the world go by. Rather than allowing people to come over and stroke them, ask people to stand still while you put your puppy on the floor and allow them to go and say hello if they wish.
Creating positive associations. A great example of this is going to see the vet. This can be a scary experience for dogs, especially since it is often accompanied by being poked with sharp things! Before your first appointment, call and ask your vet if you can come and visit. Since your puppy won’t have had their jabs yet, you can just carry them into the waiting room, then perhaps sit with them on your lap for a couple of minutes and feed them some treats! You could also have the staff come and feed them a couple of treats too. Try to keep sessions short but regular.
Exposing your dog to new sights, sounds and smells at a distance/intensity they are able to cope with. Remember that dogs’ senses of smell and hearing in particular are far more sensitive than ours: while we might not think a particular location is very exciting, it may be super overwhelming for your pup! If they show any signs that they’re struggling (tail tucked under, ears back, shivering, pawing you for attention), then create some physical distance so they can observe things from a place where they feel comfortable and safe.
Learning to focus on you when there are exciting distractions around. Yes, we want our dogs to enjoy life. However, we also want them to pay attention to us! Practice rewarding your puppy for looking at you whenever you’re out on a walk, especially if they have just seen something exciting like another dog. The end result will be a puppy who looks at you to ask if they can go and play rather than bombing after every single dog they see!
Train 'em young!
This early sensitive period is also a great time to start teaching your puppy some of the essential life skills they will need as an adult. The key behaviours I always start with are sit (and stay), loose-lead walking, recall and a lie-down-and-settle. It’s also good to play with your puppy lots so they learn that you’re a fun person to be around! If your puppy is struggling with any of these skills, why not check out my training packages? I can help you get your puppy off on the right paw with a bespoke training plan that takes account of their unique personality!